Prussic Self Rescue:
Aim: To understand how the prussic system is used in a self rescue scenario
Special equipment required:
- 2 prussic loops per climber
- 1 short sling a climber
- Set up where the wall has a significant overhang
- The working top rope is tied off to the wall using Italian hitch. A safety rope is required
Assessment for Level 1
- Prepare equipment including the assembly of the prussic loops
- Tie into safety rope and into the working rope
- Ascend 2 m and when the working rope is tightened the student will swing out and hang in the air high enough so their feet are well clear of the ground.
- Tie prussic for foot and extended if necessary.
- Tie top prussic and attached to belay loop.
- Ascend until sufficient slack is generated in the rope to attached safety backup karabiner using clove hitch
- Ascend rope smoothly adjusting the clove hitch accordingly
- Descend using techniques in reverse
Escape the Belay
The student should have completed EBS Level 2
Aim: To teach how to escape the belay
To teach how to assist a stuck
- Escaping the belay
- Why it might be necessary:
- When it might be necessary
- At ground level the student will be attached to his climber and three point anchor system in a top belay
- The climber will stop
- The belayer will make his assessment of the situation - that the climber needs assistance
- The belayer will then tie off belay correctly
- Tie a prussic loop around the rope using climb klemheist knot below the belay device
- Clip a sling to the prussic using screw gate karabiner and then clip the sling into the anchor system to which the belayer
- The belayer will then tie the dead rope using an Italian hitch onto an HMS karabiner which he will clip into the safety
system by clipping into both karabiners holding the anchor ropes .
- The belayer will cautiously release a lot of belay checking that the prussic knot holds rope securely for the release the
rope from the belay device completely
- The Italian hitch is used to take up the slack in the rope and locked off
- The prussic loop is removed
- The belayer then clips independently into the safety system and unties his lead rope.
Assisted Climber Recovery
Aim: To be able to assistance to an active climber is unable to complete a section of the climb
- Tie off belay
- Attach prussic loop to the rope below your belay device using a Klemheist knot
- Attached to the belay loop using a screw gate karbiner
- Attach a screw gate karabiner to a bight of the dead rope
- Lower the karabiner to the climber
- Instructor the climber to clip the karabiner to the belay loop
- The belayer then unblocks the belay device
- The climber is told to pull on the rope coming down from the belayer while the belayer pulls on the rope coming from the karabiner on the climbers belay
- Check that the klemheist is not too tight and yet will grip the rope when required.
Mountain Safety Level 3
Aim: To introduce an awareness of potential problems in the mountain environment. How they can be avoided or dealt with if
Critical Information Sheet
Children's Aide Memoire
to edit, move, delete or add a different page element.