To hold the Belayer secure if the climber, either seconding or leading, takes a significant fall.
Three critical areas;
1. CHOICE OF POSITION
To decide where you want to sit:
2 . ANCHOR POINTS -
The stance is only as secure as the anchors
3. RIGGING THE BELAY STANCE
Ensure equal loading on all anchors to spread the loading and, importantly, should one or more fail, the remaining anchor(s) are not shock loaded into failure. Only screw gates should be used.
For: Simple, Easily adjusted
Against: Anchors must be very close, Extra slings must be carried, Sometimes awkward to equalize
For: Very light, Easily equalized, More flexible than slings
Against: Cord has no stretch and is therefore not good at absorbing sudden extreme shock loadings.
For: Very flexible, Easily rigged and equalised
Against: Rope length limited when at the top of a long pitch
Great care is needed to avoid stressing the system by creating too great an angle bet